THE OLYMPIGS: MACEA WINES COOK AT RAW DUCK

Date: 08/04/2019

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Cipriano grew up in Macea and has been farming its vines biodynamically since 2003. It’s a magic place, dropped down the side of a valley between the Apennines and the Apuan Alps.

The wines draw their force and aromatic depth from the extreme terroir. That terroir takes its shape from the particular slope of the Serchio valley, which sees copious rainfall and wild temperature shifts between hot days and cold nights – nighttime drops of 22 degrees celsius are the usual. The oldest vines date back 50 years, a rare catalogue of indigenous varietals many of which are still unrecognised, encompassing Ciliegio, Black Malvasia, White Malvasia, Montannina, Bracciola, Tannet, Bargigiana, Colombana and Trebbiano. And in 2009, Cipriano made new plantings of Pinot Nero, Pinot Grigio and Sangiovese, chosen to capture the terroir. The project here is preservation – native grapes and birthright soil –  and humility and respect are watchwords in both vineyard and the cellar. All of the wines are spontaneously fermented in open top vats, using only native yeasts and currently with just minute additions of sulfur.

The roast pig and Macea wine formula is one we know well: Cipriano’s taught it to us over many years of sourcing trips. Elemental cooking, elemental wines; big aromatic flavours. It’s an unmissable combination, and not least for the presence of the man himself, who knows how to host.

Pouring from 3pm, pig from 630. Walk-ins and table bookings.